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Food Alone: One portion of fresh pasta and Marcella’s Tomato Sauce with...

No cookbook, I’m doing this one from memory. One season of work is coming to a close, with a month to go before the next one. I’ve been looking forward to days of reading, writing, cooking, and yard...

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Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers’s Rigatoni, Cabbage, Fontina

from Italian Easy: Recipes from the London River Cafe, p. 83. This recipe I just don’t get. The combination of ingredients engaged me immediately, but it didn’t work — for me. I don’t know if the...

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Food Alone: Pasta with Sautéed Gulf Shrimp and Radicchio

I wasn’t sure this would work. In fact, I’m never sure anything I cook will work, especially the food I make up on the spur of the moment. For this reason, I almost never make up dishes for guests....

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Food Alone: Alice Waters’ Long-Cooked Broccoli

from The Art of Simple Food, p. 204. I have a theory about Alice Water’s dominion of food. The restaurant-patrons of this country owe Alice more than we are conscious of. The standard she set at Chez...

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Pasta with Asparagus, Pancetta, and Potato

A recipe of my owning devising (at least, I think so…) Recipes resemble tunes in that they are easy to plagiarize without realizing it. Who knows if I once read somewhere that asparagus, pancetta, and...

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Michael Psilakis: Pastitsio

from How to Roast a Lamb, pp. 212-213. Back in the old days, Greek women had arms like lumberjacks. Or so I gather. Michael Psilakis’s new book reminds me of how hard it is to make thin phyllo dough...

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Why a Duck? Nigel Slater’s Roast Duck + 3 recipes with the leftovers

from The Kitchen Diaries, pp. 372-74. I had an organic Mary’s duck in my freezer. The temperatures are soaring into the 100s. That frozen bird, I knew, would not last until fall. I had to roast it no...

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Orecchiette with Smoked Bacon, Swiss Chard, Red Onion, and Tomatoes

Adapted from a recipe that I can no longer find (The Guardian, I think). Why did I plant sixteen tomato plants? My kitchen counters are awash in tomatoes. So, I’m cooking with them as much as...

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Pasta with Duck Sausage and Carrots Risotto-Style

Partially inspired by an old Saveur recipe. Patricia Wells’s recipe for Penne ‘Risotto’ taught me how to make a rich pasta sauce with little effort by treating the dried pasta like arborio rice. It’s...

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Food Alone: Orecchiette with Roasted Cauliflower, Potato, Pancetta, and Sweet...

Here’s another pasta and potato dish that suits the summer. No claims to originality here. This combination of ingredients can be found, I’m sure, in many other recipes. But, then again, how many...

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